June 9th

Yes, another long delay in updating. Because building's more fun :-). Having taken last week off work, the Rush is virtually complete, just needing the hole in the bonnet cutting before it can go on the road for its MOT. Of course, it didn't all go that smoothly...

Thinking back to the last update, shortly after that it became obvious that the fan wasn't cutting in - this turned out to be a knackered sensor, which just wasn't switching. My own fault, as it's electronic, and I'd miswired it, probably knackering it. To replace it, I got a simple 82deg thermoswitch that has a brass probe that sits in the radiator fins (hence the slightly low temperature, as it's getting cooled by airflow). This didn't seem to work either, but I reckoned that was down to the probe being extremely long, so only about 1/3 of it being in the radiator. Cutting it down to size made it work nicely.

Also on the cards for buying were some new front brakehoses, as the Wilwood calipers use a strange size connector, and there was no way to adapt it to take the Dax banjo (as intended to fit a Sierra caliper). So, these were duly ordered from Hispec, in plenty of time to reach me by last weekend. They didn't arrive, due to incorrect postage. Oops. Not impressed. OTOH, they happily sent me another pair, were cheap, and good to deal with on the phone. The replacement pair were sent exactly as the first, and arrived the following day, with no excess postage charge. Royal Mail. They're great :-)

The next thing to deal with was the drive to the speedo. Now, the Rover SD1 sender is a mysterious little beastie, but I finally found out that it takes 12v to one terminal, and 0v to the other, via a resistor. The signal is taken off the 0v terminal, and thus pulses between a voltage (determined by the resistance of the unit and the resistor), and 0v. However, this didn't impress the Telemetrix speedo (about 8v/0v with a 10k resistor). Flipping it over to get a 12v/?v pulse didn't help matters, so I concluded that the Telemetrix unit only really liked 12v/0v transitions, and ordered a reed switch/magnet set instead. Fitted this (using an aluminium bracket) to the diff output shaft, and it all works fine. Other electrical matters - the wipers park now (and on the right side following a quick dismantle of the wiper motor), and the lack of mainbeam flash is down to a dodgy column stalk unit - that'll wait until after SVA, methinks.

The front arches went on easily - using Loctite Wurth-alike stuff and a coating of the liquid rubber to finish it off, the footwell carpets were pop-studded in place (so they're easy to remove if they get wet), and all that remained was to bleed the brakes and clutch. Hmm.

This proved to be a bit of an ordeal - the bleed nipples on the front calipers are mini (ie small, not the car) ones, so of course the standard bleeding hose kit thing I got didn't fit. And there are 2 on each caliper. Joy. Anyway, this was the least of my problems, as no matter what we (I roped Richard into helping) did, the pedal still sank to the carpet. It was then I noticed a pool of some considerable size under the front T-piece. Turns out that some muppet hadn't tightened the brake light switch when he did the rest of the joints. Oops :-). That done (and with PTFE tape too, as it's an appallingly loose fit), I could at least brake a little. It needs rebleeding, but given what a PITA it is, I'm tempted to ask the garage to do it prior to SVA. The clutch proved problematic too, this time traced to a crap-fitting bleed nipple. These sorted, however, the temptation proved too great, and I reversed out, turned it round, and reversed back into the garage. It's a monster, there's no other way to put it :-) .Even thinking about using the throttle had it roaring in anticipation. So, like I said at the top, 'just' the bonnet hole to cut (a job which I'm really not relishing). Best ring the SVA centre tomorrow and see what sort of dates they've got available... Oh and the tape on the scuttle in the photos is being used as registration marks on the bonnet, to ensure I put it in the same place each time I look at the hole being cut.

Hang on, haven't we seen this before? The control room

June 16th

Short and sweet, this one. Spent the entire weekend (and several evenings last week) getting the hole cut in the bonnet. What a complete pain that is. And it sticks out the bonnet a bit more than I was expecting it to. Still, nothing I can do about that now. Given the number of Rushes that have holes cut in the bonnet, why on Earth don't Dax do a scooped bonnet like Westfield et al do? Maybe I'll suggest it to them next time I'm down there. An irritating side effect of cutting the bonnet to fit is that it's become blindingly apparent that the throttle linkage won't fit under the bonnet line. So, I rang Dax about this (remembering seeing something on the demonstrator). Turns out that there are some pencil sketches by them for their own use - of course, they're not in the manual, are they... Got them faxed to me, and they make little sense, and mean a bit of fabrication (and some welding). However, I _think_ I can avoid this by judicious hackery of the existing linkage. What I intend to do shouldn't affect any of the parts used by the Dax method, so there's not a lot to lose. If it all goes well, I'll explain what I do.

June 19th

It didn't. I won't. Throttle spindle gone to Dax for alteration, I'll make up the bracketry myself. Photos.

Hang on, haven't we seen this before? The control room

June 25th

Over the weekend, did very little other than trim round the bonnet hole (I don't like the trim, but it's got to be done for SVA, and it might as well be with this), and paint the plenum silver - the red clashed horribly, and had got a bit scratched with all the bonnet removal/refitting.

Throttle spindle returned from Dax today, altered. Looks like a simple alteration, really. Just an arm welded on to the spindle. I've made up the required brackets - one from the old throttle mechanism, and the other from a piece of plate. All assembled together trivially, and it was time to give it a go... Unfortunately, the throttle stop _just_ fouls the bonnet still, so once open, it don't close. Oops. Sorry, neighbours :-) Quick bit of attention from Mr Dremel, and it's sorted, so time to turn the car round again. The brakes _really_ need rebleeding! Oh, and the SVA date is now set - 16th July, the day after Jim's Westfield. Next thing on the list (after bleeding) is to get insurance sorted, and book an MOT at a nearby garage...

Linkage Linkage
Hang on, haven't we seen this before? Head-on

July 14th

That should now be it. All ready for the SVA. Tomorrow, I'll probably go to Norwich to watch Jim's SVA just in case I learn any useful last minute snippets of information. And it can't do me any harm at all to appear attentive and keen to the inspector before he even starts examining my car :-)...

So, this weekend has consisted of fixing the MOT faults - loose seatbelt eyebolts, stiff steering, loose spring locking ring, and no rollpins in the balance bar. All trivial, except for the stiff steering, which took a while to locate. Having fiddled with the UJs, it was still stiff, and was eventually tracked down to a casting error in the Mountney steering wheel itself - it was rubbing on the Sierra shaft. Mr Dremel to the rescue again :-).

Also, I made up the 'permanent' steering wheel padding to keep the SVA happy, and refitted the clutch master cylinder banjo with new washers, as it's been weeping. That's it really, and I'm all ready to roll....